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10.05.2016 - Keputusan Tidak Mempengaruhi Patisiran atau Program RNAi Therapeutic Lainnya dalam Pembangunan - - Perusahaan untuk Konferensi Host Panggilan Hari ini pukul 5:00 malam. Alnylam Pharmaceuticals, Inc. (Nasdaq: ALNY), perusahaan terapeutik RNAi terkemuka, hari ini mengumumkan bahwa berdasarkan rekomendasi Komite Monitoring Data ENDEAVOR Tahap 3 untuk Komite Pemantau Data (DMC) Menangguhkan dosis, Perusahaan telah memutuskan untuk menghentikan pengembangan revusiran, intervensi RNA investigasi investigasi (RNAi) yang dikembangkan untuk pengobatan amfoidosis attrik herediter dengan kardiomiopati (hATTR-CM). Keputusan ini dibuat kemarin malam dan telah dikomunikasikan ke penyidik, tempat studi, dan otoritas pengatur. Setelah laporan terbaru dalam studi Tahap 2 OLE tentang onset baru atau neuropati perifer yang memburuk, DMC ENDEAVOR berkumpul kemarin di permintaan Perusahaan untuk meninjau laporan ini dan data ENDEAVOR secara tidak terbosan. DMC tidak menemukan bukti konklusif untuk sinyal neuropati terkait obat dalam percobaan ENDEAVOR, namun menginformasikan kepada Perusahaan bahwa profil risiko manfaat untuk revusiran tidak lagi mendukung pemberian dosis lanjutan. Perusahaan kemudian meninjau kembali data ENDEAVOR yang tidak dibesar yang menunjukkan ketidakseimbangan mortalitas pada kelompok revusiran dibandingkan dengan plasebo. Keselamatan pasien datang lebih dulu. Kami telah menghentikan semua dosis dan secara aktif memantau pasien di seluruh penelitian revusiran untuk memastikan keamanan mereka. Kami juga akan terus mengevaluasi data ENDEAVOR untuk memahami potensi penyebab temuan ini, kata Ph.D. Chief Executive Officer di Alnylam. Sementara hasil ini mengecewakan mengingat kurangnya pilihan pengobatan yang tersedia untuk pasien yang menderita penyakit ini, kami tetap berkomitmen untuk melayani kebutuhan komunitas amyloidosis ATTR. Kami ingin mengucapkan terima kasih kepada pasien, perawat, penyidik, dan staf studi yang sangat mendukung program revusiran ini. Keputusan untuk menghentikan pengembangan revusiran tidak mempengaruhi patisiran, yang saat ini dalam pengembangan Tahap 3 untuk pengobatan amiloidosis hATTR dengan polineuropati (hATTR-PN), atau program terapeutik investigasi Alnylam lainnya dalam pengembangan. Berdasarkan penilaian terkini terhadap data keselamatan di seluruh program Perusahaan lainnya, termasuk program ALN-PCSsc yang dipadukan dengan The Medicines Company, tidak ada bukti sinyal neuropati terkait obat di lebih dari 800 subyek yang dirawat dan pasien yang terpapar Sampai 34 bulan. Ini termasuk patisiran, yang menggunakan formulasi pengiriman partikel nanopartikel, dan tujuh program klinis lainnya di jaringan pipa Alnylams, yang semuanya menggunakan teknologi pengiriman Gallinc Enhanced Stabilization Chemistry (ESC). Konjugat ESC-GalNAc memungkinkan tingkat dosis dan eksposur yang 12-30 kali lebih rendah dari revusiran, yang menggunakan teknologi pengiriman GalmanĀ® Standard Template Chemistry (STC). Perusahaan menegaskan kembali panduan Alnylam 2020 dan tetap berkomitmen untuk kemajuan terapi RNAi penelitian ini untuk pengobatan penyakit dengan kebutuhan medis yang tidak terpenuhi. Jika ada pertanyaan mengenai pengumuman ini, hubungi Saluran Informasi Percobaan Klinis di 866-330-0326 (bebas pulsa di A.S.) atau 617-575-7400 (Internasional). Sebagai alternatif, Anda dapat mengirimkan pertanyaan atau komentar apapun ke klinik klinis. Informasi Panggilan Konferensi Manajemen Alnylam akan membahas perkembangan ini dalam sebuah konferensi webcast pada hari Rabu, 5 Oktober, pukul 5:00 sore. ET. Presentasi slide juga akan tersedia di halaman Investor situs web perusahaan, alnylam. Untuk menemani panggilan konferensi. Untuk mengakses panggilan, hubungi 877-312-7507 (dalam negeri) atau 631-813-4828 (internasional) lima menit sebelum waktu mulai dan lihat nomor konferensi 94969575. Sebuah replay panggilan akan tersedia mulai pukul 8: 00:00 ET. Untuk mengakses replay, hubungi 855-859-2056 (dalam negeri) atau 404-537-3406 (internasional), dan lihatlah nomor konferensi 94969575. Tentang ATTR Amyloidosis Attr amyloidosis adalah penyakit yang semakin melemahkan dan sering fatal yang disebabkan oleh pengendapan transthyretin. (TTR) pada jaringan perifer. Protein TTR diproduksi terutama di hati dan biasanya merupakan pembawa vitamin A. Pada amyloidosis ATTR herediter (hATTR), mutasi pada TTR menyebabkan protein amiloid abnormal menumpuk dan merusak organ tubuh dan jaringan, seperti saraf perifer dan jantung, menghasilkan Pada neuropati sensori perifer yang sulit dikendalikan, neuropati otonom, dan kardiomiopati. Amyloidosis ATTR yang diturunkan merupakan kebutuhan medis utama yang tidak terpenuhi dengan morbiditas dan mortalitas hATTR amiloidosis yang signifikan dengan polineuropati (hATTR-PN) - juga dikenal sebagai famili amyloidotic polyneuropathy (FAP) - mempengaruhi sekitar 10.000 orang di seluruh dunia dan hATTR amyloidosis dengan kardiomiopati (hATTR-CM) - Juga dikenal sebagai famili amyloidotic cardiomyopathy (FAC) - diperkirakan mempengaruhi setidaknya 40.000 orang di seluruh dunia. Pasien hATTR-PN memiliki harapan hidup 5 sampai 15 tahun dari onset gejala, dan satu-satunya pilihan pengobatan yang disetujui untuk penyakit stadium awal adalah transplantasi hati dan tafamidis (disetujui di Eropa, beberapa negara di Amerika Latin dan Jepang, di mana hal itu disetujui untuk Semua stadium penyakit). HATTR-CM berakibat fatal dalam 2,5 sampai 5 tahun diagnosis dan pengobatan saat ini terbatas pada perawatan suportif. Amiloidosis ATTR tipe-liar (wtATTR) - yang sebelumnya disebut amyloidosis sistemik pikun (SSA) - adalah bentuk amedloidosis TTR yang tidak turun temurun yang disebabkan oleh pengendapan idiopatik TTR tipe liar. Prevalensinya umumnya tidak diketahui, namun dikaitkan dengan usia lanjut. Ada kebutuhan yang signifikan untuk terapi baru untuk mengobati pasien dengan ATTR amyloidosis. Aliansi Sanofi Genzyme Pada bulan Januari 2014, Alnylam dan Sanofi Genzyme, unit bisnis perawatan khusus Sanofi, membentuk aliansi untuk mempercepat dan memperluas pengembangan dan komersialisasi terapi RNAi di seluruh dunia. Aliansi ini disusun sebagai aliansi geografis multi produk di bidang penyakit langka. Alnylam mempertahankan hak-hak produk di Amerika Utara dan Eropa Barat, sementara Sanofi Genzyme memperoleh hak untuk mengakses program-program tertentu di Alnylams saat ini dan masa depan Genetic Medicines pipeline di seluruh dunia (ROW) sampai akhir 2019, bersama dengan co- Hak pengembangan komersial dan hak global untuk produk tertentu. Dalam kasus patisiran, Alnylam akan memajukan produknya di Amerika Utara dan Eropa Barat, sedangkan Sanofi Genzyme akan memajukan produk di ROW. Tentang GalNAc Konjugasi dan Enhanced Stabilization Chemistry (ESC) -GalNAc Konjugasi konjugat GalNAc-siRNA adalah platform pengiriman Alnylam yang eksklusif dan dirancang untuk mencapai pengiriman terapi RNAi yang ditargetkan ke hepatosit melalui pengambilan oleh reseptor asialoglikoprotein. Teknologi Alzheimer Enhanced Stabilization Chemistry (ESC) -GalNAc-conjugate memungkinkan dosis subkutan dengan potensi dan daya tahan meningkat, dan indeks terapeutik yang luas. Platform pengiriman ini digunakan di hampir semua program pipa Alnylams, termasuk program dalam pengembangan klinis. Tentang RNAi RNAi (interferensi RNA) adalah sebuah revolusi dalam biologi, merupakan terobosan dalam memahami bagaimana gen dinyalakan dan dimatikan dalam sel, dan pendekatan baru untuk penemuan dan pengembangan obat. Penemuannya telah digembar-gemborkan sebagai terobosan ilmiah utama yang terjadi satu dekade sekali, dan merupakan salah satu batas paling menjanjikan dan cepat maju dalam biologi dan penemuan obat-obatan yang dianugerahi Hadiah Nobel untuk Fisiologi atau Kedokteran tahun 2006. RNAi adalah proses alami pembungkaman gen yang terjadi pada organisme mulai dari tanaman hingga mamalia. Dengan memanfaatkan proses biologis alami RNAi yang terjadi di sel kita, penciptaan kelas obat baru yang utama, yang dikenal sebagai terapi RNAi, ada di cakrawala. RNA kecil yang mengganggu (siRNA), molekul yang menengahi RNAi dan terdiri dari platform terapeutik Alnylams RNAi, menargetkan penyebab penyakit dengan mematikan mRNA potensial, sehingga mencegah protein penyebab penyakit dibuat. Terapi RNAi berpotensi mengobati penyakit dan membantu pasien dengan cara yang baru secara fundamental. Tentang Teknologi LNP Alnylam memiliki lisensi atas kekayaan intelektual Arbutus Biopharma LNP untuk digunakan dalam produk terapeutik RNAi dengan menggunakan teknologi LNP. Tentang Alnylam Pharmaceuticals Alnylam adalah perusahaan biofarmasi yang mengembangkan terapi baru berdasarkan gangguan RNA, atau RNAi. Perusahaan ini memimpin terjemahan RNAi sebagai kelas baru obat-obatan inovatif. Alnylams pipa penelitian RNAi terapeutik difokuskan di 3 Kawasan Terapi Strategis (STArs): Obat-obatan Genetik, dengan jaringan terapi RNAi yang luas untuk pengobatan penyakit langka Penyakit Metabolik-Cardio, dengan pipa terapi RNAi terhadap genetika yang divalidasi, Menyatakan target penyakit untuk kebutuhan yang tidak terpenuhi dalam penyakit kardiovaskular dan metabolik dan Penyakit Infeksi Hepatik, dengan pipa terapi RNAi yang mengatasi tantangan kesehatan global utama dari penyakit menular hati. Pada awal 2015, Alnylam meluncurkan panduan Alnylam 2020 untuk kemajuan dan komersialisasi terapi RNAi sebagai keseluruhan kelas baru obat-obatan inovatif. Secara khusus, pada akhir tahun 2020, Alnylam mengharapkan untuk mencapai profil perusahaan dengan 3 produk yang dipasarkan, 10 program terapi terapeutik RNAi - termasuk 4 pada tahap perkembangan akhir - di 3 unit STArs. Perusahaan menunjukkan komitmen terhadap terapi RNAi telah memungkinkannya untuk membentuk aliansi utama dengan perusahaan terkemuka termasuk Ionis, Novartis, Roche, Takeda, Merck. Monsanto, The Medicines Company, dan Sanofi Genzyme. Selain itu, Alnylam memegang posisi ekuitas di Regulus Therapeutics Inc. sebuah perusahaan yang berfokus pada penemuan, pengembangan, dan komersialisasi terapi microRNA. Ilmuwan dan kolaborator Alnylam telah mempublikasikan penelitian mereka tentang terapi RNAi di lebih dari 200 makalah peer-review, termasuk banyak jurnal ilmiah terkemuka di dunia seperti Nature, Nature Medicine, Nature Biotechnology, Cell, New England Journal of Medicine, dan The Lancet. Didirikan pada tahun 2002, Alnylam mengelola kantor pusat di Cambridge, Massachusetts. Untuk informasi lebih lanjut tentang pipa Alnylams terapi RNAi investigasi, silakan kunjungi alnylam. Pernyataan Kehadir Alnylam Berbagai pernyataan dalam rilis ini mengenai harapan, rencana dan prospek Alnylam di masa depan, termasuk namun tidak terbatas, pandangan Alnylam sehubungan dengan potensi terapi RNAi, termasuk pengembangan patisiran yang berlanjut, harapannya mengenai penghentian pengembangan revusiran, Dan evaluasi berkelanjutan atas data keselamatan dari revusiran dan uji klinis lainnya, ekspektasinya mengenai keamanan dan tolerabilitas produknya dalam pengembangan klinis, termasuk produk yang menggunakan konjugat ESC-GalNAc, dan harapannya mengenai strategi pertumbuhan pipa STAr dan Alnylam-nya. 2020 panduan untuk kemajuan dan komersialisasi terapi RNAi, merupakan pernyataan berwawasan ke depan untuk tujuan ketentuan pelabuhan yang aman berdasarkan Undang-Undang Reformasi Litigasi Surat Berharga Swasta tahun 1995. Hasil aktual dan rencana masa depan mungkin berbeda secara material dari yang ditunjukkan oleh pandangan ke depan ini. Pernyataan sebagai akibat dari berbagai risiko penting, ketidakpastian dan faktor lainnya, termasuk, namun tidak terbatas, kemampuan Alnylam untuk menemukan dan mengembangkan kandidat obat baru dan pendekatan pengiriman, berhasil menunjukkan kemanjuran dan keamanan kandidat produknya, hasil pra-klinis dan klinis. Untuk kandidat produknya, yang mungkin tidak dapat direplikasi atau terus terjadi pada subjek lain atau dalam studi tambahan atau mendukung pengembangan kandidat produk lebih lanjut untuk indikasi atau tindakan yang ditentukan atau saran dari badan pengatur, termasuk tindakan oleh regulator mengenai produk Kandidat selain keputusan Alnylam untuk menghentikan pengembangan revusiran, yang dapat mempengaruhi perancangan, inisiasi, waktu, kelanjutan dan atau kemajuan uji klinis atau mengakibatkan kebutuhan untuk pengujian klinis pra-klinis dan tambahan, penundaan, interupsi atau kegagalan dalam pembuatan Dan penawaran calon produk, mendapatkan, mempertahankan Dan melindungi kekayaan intelektual, kemampuan Alnylam untuk menerapkan hak kekayaan intelektualnya terhadap pihak ketiga dan mempertahankan portofolio patennya melawan tantangan dari pihak ketiga, mendapatkan dan mempertahankan persetujuan, penetapan harga dan penggantian biaya untuk produk, kemajuan dalam membangun infrastruktur komersial dan bekas Amerika Serikat , Persaingan dari orang lain yang menggunakan teknologi yang serupa dengan Alnylams dan produk pengembangan lainnya untuk penggunaan serupa, kemampuan Alnylam untuk mengelola pertumbuhan dan biaya operasional, memperoleh dana tambahan untuk mendukung kegiatan bisnisnya, dan membangun dan mempertahankan aliansi bisnis strategis dan inisiatif bisnis baru, ketergantungan Alnylams Pada pihak ketiga untuk pengembangan, pembuatan dan pendistribusian produk, hasil litigasi, risiko penyelidikan pemerintah, dan pengeluaran tak terduga, serta risiko yang dibahas lebih lengkap dalam Faktor Risiko yang diajukan oleh Laporan Triwulanan terbaru dari Alnylams pada Formulir 10- Q diajukan wi Komisi Sekuritas dan Bursa Efek (SEC) dan pengarsipan lainnya yang dibuat Alnylam bersama SEC. Selain itu, pernyataan berwawasan ke depan mewakili pandangan Alnylam hanya pada hari ini dan tidak boleh diandalkan untuk mewakili pandangannya pada tanggal berikutnya. Alnylam secara eksplisit menolak kewajiban apapun, kecuali sejauh yang diminta oleh undang-undang, untuk memperbarui pernyataan berwawasan ke depan. Informasi ilmiah yang dibahas dalam siaran pers yang berkaitan dengan terapi terapeutik Alnylam ini bersifat pendahuluan dan investigasi. Tak satu pun dari terapi terapeutik Alnylam yang disetujui oleh Administrasi Makanan dan Obat A.S. Badan Obat-obatan Eropa Atau otoritas pengatur lainnya dan tidak ada kesimpulan yang dapat atau harus ditarik mengenai keamanan atau keefektifan terapi ini. Alnylam Pharmaceuticals, Inc. (Investor dan Media) Christine Regan LindenboomWeeks Chevrolet Weeks Chevrolet DI Benton, IL - MELAYANI Mt. Vernon, IL PELANGGAN CHEVROLET Terima kasih telah mengunjungi Weeks Chevrolet di Benton, IL. Jangan ragu untuk menghubungi departemen penjualan kami untuk sebuah kutipan. Pilihan pembiayaan penelitian Atau menjadwalkan janji temu untuk mengendarai salah satu kendaraan Chevy baru kami termasuk Cruze baru. Equinox. Atau Silverado 1500. Datanglah ke dealer Benton kami, atau hubungi kami atau kirim email kepada kami jika Anda memiliki pertanyaan. Weeks Chevrolet telah menjadi dealer utama Benton Chevrolet untuk mobil, truk dan SUV baru. Di dealer kami, Anda akan menemukan persediaan Chevrolet yang sangat besar. Minggu Chevrolet - A Mt. Vernon amp Frankfort Barat CHEVROLET DEALER ALTERNATIVE Weeks Chevrolet adalah Frankfort Barat, Marion, dan Mt. Vernon Chevrolet dealer alternatif, melayani seluruh Southern Illinois. Anda dapat mempercayai anggota staf kami yang ramah dan berpengetahuan untuk membantu Anda menemukan kendaraan baru atau bekas yang sempurna di lingkungan bebas stres. Demi kenyamanan Anda, buka enam hari seminggu. Weeks Chevrolet terletak di 1627 N. Main Street di Benton - hanya beberapa blok Timur dari Interstate 57. Driver Benton Chevrolet, hubungi kami untuk mempelajari lebih lanjut atau mengunjungi dealer kami hari ini Weeks Chevrolet Offers Service and Parts to Benton and Mt. Vernon, IL Chevrolet Drivers Pada Weeks Chevrolet di Benton, IL, kami memiliki layanan prima dan departemen bagian yang berdedikasi untuk memberikan perbaikan kualitas terbaik, pekerjaan tubuh, dan perawatan layanan untuk kendaraan Anda. Dealer kami dapat memenuhi semua kebutuhan perawatan rutin Anda seperti perubahan oli, putaran ban, dan pekerjaan rem, serta layanan terjadwal untuk mobil, truk, atau SUV Benton Chevrolet Anda yang baru. Jangan ragu untuk menghubungi kami atau menjadwalkan janji temu secara online. Weeks Chevrolet yakin bahwa Anda akan menemukan apa yang Anda inginkan untuk memenuhi kebutuhan Anda di Mt. Vernon, IL Sumber dealer Chevrolet. Pilihan Pembiayaan dan Leasing Tersedia di Benton, IL Weeks Chevrolet bekerja dengan berbagai kreditur untuk memberi Anda kesepakatan terbaik mengenai mobil Chevrolet, truk, atau SUV baru atau bekas. Jika Anda tidak yakin apakah leasing adalah pilihan yang tepat untuk Anda, kami dapat membantu menjawab pertanyaan itu. Kami akan melakukan segala kemungkinan di Weeks Chevrolet untuk mendapatkan kendaraan yang Anda inginkan dan tetap sesuai anggaran. Untuk mempelajari lebih lanjut tentang pilihan pembiayaan kami, hubungi dealer Benton Chevrolet kami hari ini Staf kami yang ramah siap membantu Anda. PERLENGKAPAN: Modifikasi yang dijelaskan dalam teks berikut hanya untuk tujuan pendidikan. Sama sekali tidak saya sarankan agar Anda menerapkan modifikasi ini pada motor Anda sendiri. Jika Anda memilih untuk terus maju dan memodifikasi sepeda motor Anda berdasarkan informasi dalam dokumen ini, Anda akan menerima semua tanggung jawab atas tindakan Anda sendiri. Penulis (s) dari FAQ dan host yang menyediakannya untuk Anda tidak bertanggung jawab sama sekali. Jika Anda tidak memenuhi syarat untuk melakukan perubahan yang diuraikan di sini namun bertekad melakukan modifikasi, carilah teman yang berpengetahuan atau mekanik profesional untuk mendapatkan bantuan. Umum: TTR250 memiliki tuas berpendingin udara, 4 tak, 4 katup, DOHC tunggal dengan roda gigi kecepatan listrik, enam (rasio jarak dekat) dan rem cakram depan dan belakang. Pemilik cenderung sangat antusias dengan model dan dibenarkan begitu. Saya adalah salah satu penggemar dan ketika pertama kali mendapatkan TTR saya, saya berjuang untuk menemukan informasi tentang hal itu - oleh karena itu FAQ ini dikembangkan. Saya sekarang berada di TTR ketiga saya (model 2004 yang baru) dan masih menganggap mereka adalah motor trail terbaik sepanjang masa di sekitar saya tinggal di Devon, sebuah County di South West of the UK yang indah, yang memiliki banyak jalan yang tidak berserakan juga. Dikenal dengan pembalap trail di Inggris sebagai lintasan senapan bebas. Secara keseluruhan TTRs sangat baik dibuat dengan beberapa sentuhan yang bagus seperti penjaga rantai yang layak, jari-jari tebal, lengan ayun paduan solid pada model Open Enduro, kaca penglihatan minyak mesin, pipa baja stainless steel dengan diameter besar, redaman belakang yang dapat disesuaikan dengan tangan Dan, pada model biru, tangki plastik dan back-up kickstart. Mulai dengan baik dan memiliki mesin halus yang tenang dengan kopling ringan dan banyak torsi rendah. Roda gigi yang bagus dan dekat dan memberikan percepatan relatif cepat di gigi bawah dan, pada saat Anda mendapatkan ke 6, Anda memiliki gigi jalan yang tepat tinggi. Sangat nyaman dikendarai dengan suspensi cukup kencang dan teredam dengan baik. Mesinnya cukup canggih untuk benjolan berpendingin udara dan dilengkapi dengan carb pumper. Yamaha telah dengan serius menyalurkan pipa nafas karbohidrat ke atas kotak udara dan memiliki katup satu arah di pipa pembuangan yang mencegah pemotongan di perairan dalam. Versi legal jalan tersedia di Inggris antara tahun 2003 dan 2005 dan Yamaha Inggris secara resmi mengimpor sekitar 781 unit. TTR250 sangat cocok untuk mereka yang memulai bersepeda. Mereka tidak terlalu tinggi (dan menurunkan link sudah tersedia bagi mereka yang memiliki kaki pendek) dan memiliki listrik yang sangat penting. Setelah mengeluarkan banyak jejak trailing, naik listrik bisa membuat perbedaan antara kelelahan dan pengalaman yang menyenangkan karena, bagaimanapun, akan banyak mengulur-ulur dan mungkin beberapa sentuhan lembut. Empat pukulan pada khususnya tidak seperti pergi horisontal - restart tanpa start listrik bisa jadi sulit. TTR menangani indah di luar jalan dan bisa dilemparkan ke dalam tikungan dan disulap dengan cara yang mengesankan. Ini juga berjalan dengan sangat baik, dan melintasi, jalan setapak. Suspensinya sangat bagus dan menyerap benjolan dan akar yang benar-benar bagus tapi tidak berkubang atau terbawah pada hembusan yang lebih besar. Di daerah di mana ada sedikit ruas jalan yang harus ditutupi antara jalur, kotak enam percepatannya masuk ke dalamnya. Yamaha WRs, Honda CRFs dll semuanya menderita buzzy di jalan karena hanya memiliki lima roda gigi. TTRs kursi nyaman sepanjang hari adalah bonus tambahan bila dibandingkan dengan papan nama mirip pisau cukur yang lolos ke kursi di beberapa sepeda off-road. Yamaha TT250R (4GY1) Kembali ke atas halaman Pre-Y2K (putih) model. Pada dasarnya ada dua model: Enduro Terbuka dan Raid. TTR adalah traillie yang sangat beradab bahwa UK Trail Bike dan Enduro Magazine (TBM) digambarkan sebagai kuota beradab karena kompeten. Hanya segelintir TTR yang diimpor ke Inggris pada tahun 1995 oleh Mitsui Yamaha dan tidak pernah digolongkan sebagai impor quotofficialquot. Mereka tampaknya tidak terjual dengan baik - bukan karena mereka memiliki sepeda yang bagus - tapi karena apa yang digambarkan sebagai label harga quotexorbitantquot pada saat 4.000 plus. Sepertinya ada banyak impor antara tahun 1993 dan 1995 (biasanya plastik putih dan tangki logam) yang kemudian nampaknya ada celah sampai TTR (Tangki) plastik yang baru dibuka dan dijual secara resmi oleh Yamaha di Inggris. Beberapa bagian umum saling dipertukarkan dengan perangkat offroader lainnya, mis. Bantalan rem, tapi baterai gel khusus untuk TTR. Model Open Enduro memiliki suspensi suspensi yang ditentukan dengan baik dengan unit yang dapat disesuaikan depan dan belakang. Ujung depan cepat kemudi yang sangat mumpuni ini memiliki poros utama dan garpu terusan udara dengan kecepatan perjalanan lebih dari 10 kilogram. Bagian belakang memiliki monoshock tingkat Yamahas sendiri dengan waduk jarak jauh yang memungkinkan penyesuaian untuk kompresi dan peredaman rebound dan sekitar 10 kilo perjalanan seperti untuk garpu depan. Ini memiliki bingkai bagian kotak baja dengan lengan ayunan sekutu tugas berat dan pelek roda anodis khas ungu yang Anda sukai atau benci Mesinnya tumbuh subur pada putaran tetapi memiliki ujung bawah yang cukup untuk dipasang bersamaan dengan putaran rendah dan tetap menarik bersih dari nol. Dikutip di 28bhp 8,500 rpm Perbedaan antara model Raid dan Open Enduro: tangki lebih besar pada Raid maka jika Anda mengisinya dengan benar, tambahkan berat melebihi dan di atas OE, rakitan lampu pada Raid lebih sesuai. Untuk jalan atau penggunaan pada uji coba malam tapi cukup berat (berat 4lbs dibandingkan dengan 1lb 4 oz dari unit plastik OE) dengan ban baja ringan yang tidak memiliki redaman kompresi belakang adjustable yaitu penyesuaian clickter striper Mulut-Softquot di bagian belakang. Shock quotreservoir sedangkan kebanyakan OE memiliki panel samping Raids lebih seperti polong - ada kotak plastik yang berguna di bawah tangan kiri yang berisi ukuran rantai alat perkakas dan gearing berbeda dengan 520 pada Enduro Terbuka dan 428 pada Raid Sub frame belakang juga berbeda seperti layout kursi Raid seat yang lebih rendah (sekitar 35 di atas tanah dibandingkan dengan OE 36,25) dan datar. Yang dirancang untuk lebih banyak duduk, kerja jarak jauh namun jauh lebih baik daripada OE jika Anda ingin membawa footpeg belakang penumpang di Raid dipasang secara terpisah ke sub frame dan pada Enduro Terbuka adalah paduan kecil yang dipasang langsung ke Subframe Raid swing arm adalah baja - ini adalah paduan pada model TTR lainnya Spec. Untuk OE ada di FAQ ini Kembali ke atas halaman Y2K (biru) model. Sejak sekitar 2000 semua TTR baru memiliki plastik quotYZquot biru dan tangki plastik. Mereka didasarkan pada versi Open Enduro daripada Raid. Garpu depan memiliki katup udara untuk menyesuaikan tingkat pegas dan sekrup penyesuaian redaman untuk mengatur gaya redaman. Guncangan belakang memiliki penyesuaian reload musim semi yang biasa, rebound damping force adjusting dial dan tombol pengubah gaya tekan redaman. TTR250 terkenal di Australia karena telah memenangkan kejuaraan enduro nasional Model yang dijual di Eropa memiliki tendangan listrik dan tendangan dimulai sebagai standar yang membuatnya menjadi quotdual startquot serta memiliki geometri dan suspensi kemudi yang lebih cepat (lebih cepat). TTR yang dipasok ke AS HANYA dimulai dengan listrik. TTR250 masih tersedia baru di Australia (dan bingkainya berubah menjadi hitam) sampai tahun 2012. Itu juga dual start Rupanya TTR tahun 1999 terjual di Australia, meski model plastiknya biru, memiliki kopling 6 piring dan mesin yang lebih tua. Dari model TTR quotwhitequot dipasang Kembali ke atas halaman Berapa harga yang harus saya bayar untuk TTR250 Di Inggris, TTR250 kuotip kuotasi yang lebih tua terjual antara 800 dan 1.400 dengan model biru dalam kondisi baik dengan biaya 1.800 ke atas. TTR baru tidak lagi tersedia di Inggris. TTR250 masih merupakan impor quotofficialquot ke AustraliaNZ sampai 2012. Kembali ke atas halaman Membuka TTR250 Dua freebie mods untuk memulai dengan: 1. Lihatlah di bawah tangki pada hubungan throttle Anda dan Anda akan melihat bahwa Mr Yamaha memasang stop screw yang membatasi Anda kurang dari full throttle. Sesuaikan sekrup untuk memungkinkan perjalanan penuh dari hubungan throttle tapi untuk menghentikannya tepat sebelum throttle slide menyentuh bagian atas karbohidrat. Beberapa pengendara mengambil sekrup sepenuhnya tapi saya tidak akan merekomendasikan itu. 2. Jika Anda belum memiliki model AS, lepaskan pembatas knalpot di bagian belakang pipa tajuk - detail lebih jauh ke bawah. Jika Anda sudah mendapatkan model AS, lepaskan sekrup di ujung knalpot dan tarik keluar baffle tapi jangan lakukan ini jika Anda naik dimana ada undang-undang arrestor percikan. Kedua hal ini akan memungkinkan motor Anda bernafas sedikit lebih baik. Berikutnya akan dikenakan biaya sejumlah kecil: 1. Ganti filter stok dengan filter aftermarket seperti itu dari Twin Air. 2. Tarik karet snorkeling keluar dari atas kotak udara HANYA jika Anda tidak naik melalui air dalam. Beberapa pemilik merekomendasikan hanya memangkas snorkel dengan memotongnya kembali menjadi satu anak tangga di bagian atas dan dua anak tangga di kotak udara itu sendiri. 3. Rejet motor yang sesuai. 4. Ganti sproket depan standar dengan gigi 13 - ini akan memperbaiki akselerasi TTR dan kemampuan off-road dengan sangat baik tanpa menghambat kecepatan tertinggi. Keuntungan kinerja akan terlihat jelas. Hal yang paling anda perhatikan adalah mesin akan berakselerasi lebih cepat. Jika Anda mengendarai di ketinggian tinggi, dan tidak perlu penyeberangan air, maka selain melepas snorkel, Anda mungkin mempertimbangkan untuk memotong lubang di bagian atas kotak udara tapi pastikan Anda segera menyesuaikannya. Berikutnya akan dikenakan biaya lebih banyak: Ganti peredam standar dengan aftermarket satu. Ini menambah tenaga dan memberi penghematan berat yang signifikan. Jika jejak mengendarai di Inggris (atau daerah sensitif lainnya di dunia) pastikan penggantinya adalah yang sepi Kami tidak ingin kehilangan jalur dan jalur hijau hanya untuk mendapatkan sedikit kekuatan dan suara yang keren. Lihat thread bagus ini oleh Aaron Cooper dari forum ThumperTalk yang menjelaskan semuanya secara lebih rinci dan dengan pics: STOP PRESS - Aaron memperbarui kuotileku pada ThumperTalk pada tanggal 25 Juni 2007 dengan link baru untuk jet dll. Terima kasih Aaron - ini adalah super -bantuan sumber daya untuk pemilik TTR250 yang mencari sedikit kekuatan lagi. Kembali ke atas halaman Acerbis 22lt TTR250 model - tapi sangat jarang. Di Inggris coba Rally dan Overland. Pilihan tangki belakang nomad, 4,5lt sampai 8lt. Kustom pas dari Honda XR250400 dan atau 600650 after-market tank. Tangki bumper pengangkat 8lt. Poin bagus - untuk memiliki pasokan bahan bakar terpisah jika motornya mengalami benturan besar. Poin buruk - ini menghilangkan pilihan untuk pillion, pilot tidak bisa meluncur ke belakang jok di rides jalan yang lebih panjang, dan atau rak belakang. , Menambah berat badan di atas sub frame belakang dan meningkatkan pusat gravitasi serta membobolkan sisi kiri tangki IMS (tidak terlihat) 17lt (Honda XR250400). Poin bagus - bahan bakar ekstra 7 liter, tangki tidak terlalu lebar sehingga tidak banyak mengubah nuansa motor. Poin buruk - perlu sedikit fair mucking untuk mendapatkan baut di bagian depan berbaris, dan kursi perlu dibentuk kembali agar sesuai dengan rapi. 23lt (Honda XR650) Acerbis membuat tangki. Poin yang bagus - banyak bahan bakar, (saya mendapatkan 500km dengan 1542 sprocket), pas lurus ke titik mount TTR (menggunakan braket Honda dan baut Yamaha), tidak terlalu lebar meski cukup lebar untuk berlutut dengan sempurna bagi saya dalam perjalanan yang lebih lama. , Dua bahan bakar ayam, jika satu sisi rusak menutupnya dan lari dari yang lain. Akan mengambil topi Acerbis Locking untuk masalah keamanan (saya merasa tidak melumpuhkan dengan baik dan memerlukan sedikit pelepasan setiap jam atau jam untuk tekanan untuk melarikan diri). Poin buruk - cukup banyak berat badan saat penuh, dan pasangan cenderung merepotkan Anda untuk bahan bakar saat jalan di luar sana. -)) Link di bawah yang saya temui, pikir ini mungkin bisa membantu: Kembali ke atas halaman Apa yang harus saya perhatikan saat membeli TTR Umumnya tidak banyak yang salah pada yang telah dipelihara dengan baik. Speedo elektronik pada model quotwhitequot sangat mahal sehingga merupakan item yang jelas untuk diperiksa. Juga, starter listrik dan kopling sprag bisa jadi barang mahal untuk diganti jadi periksalah agar semua suara OK - terutama dengarkan untuk bang yang ditakuti saat membunuh motor. Jika tidak, pemeriksaan empat stroke yang biasa (lihat daftar periksa pembeli komprehensif saya) plus lakukan pelarian yang baik untuk memeriksa penanganan, kopling, kontrol, dll. Pada sepeda dengan kekuatan logam, periksalah bahwa sudut bawah tangkapan tangki juga berkarat di mana Mereka bergesekan di kursi. Ini memakai cat off dan memungkinkan kelembaban untuk duduk melawan tangki dan mengotorinya. Jika flap lumpur yang melindungi shock belakang sudah rusak (dan yang hasnt). Periksalah bahwa shock bekerja karena bisa kehilangan redaman jika batang peredam diadu dengan korosi. Kembali ke atas halaman Kencan TTR dari nomor bingkai Nomor bingkai adalah nomor identifikasi kendaraan atau quotVIN.quot 10 digit VIN untuk setiap kendaraan yang diproduksi setelah tahun 1980 mengidentifikasi tahun pembuatan. VIN terletak di batang kemudi dari bingkai dan tidak menjadi bingung dengan nomor seri mesin pada kasus mesin. VIN panjangnya 17 karakter. Buka Enduro 4GY1 4GY-000101 ke 025000 adalah 19934 Raid 4GY3 4GY-025101 to 044000 adalah 19945 Buka Enduro 4RR1 4GY-049101 sampai 068000 adalah 19956 Raid 4GY5 4GY-068101 sampai 081000 adalah 19956 Raid 4WA1 4GY-081101 sampai 083000 adalah 19967 Open Enduro 4RR2 Mungkin 4GY-083101 sampai 000 adalah 1997 000101 dirilis pada bulan ke 4 tahun 1993 025101 3 bulan 1994 049101 bulan ke 3 tahun 1995 068101 bulan keempat 1995 081101 3 bulan 1996 083101 bulan pertama 1997 Ternyata manual Haynes menunjukkan: model 1999 - frame no. Dimulai dengan model 5GF2 2000 - JYACG07W - YA002045 dan JYACG7Y - YA000309 My 2002 memiliki nomor frame JYADG02XX Y A002881 My 2004 memiliki nomor frame JYADG02X7 4 A007241 Spare 2004 memiliki nomor frame JYADG02X0 0 008462 Telah disarankan bahwa, dari tahun 2000, tanggal 10 Digit menunjukkan tahun pembuatan tapi itu doesnt selalu tampak untuk bekerja. Jika benar TTR quot2002quot saya dibuat 2 tahun sebelum didaftarkan Lihat tabel di bawah ini: Kembali ke atas halaman Rantai sproket info plus apa yang bersiap untuk digunakan pada Enduro Terbuka untuk jalur yang mengendarai 13-48 atau 14-52 gearing adalah barang yang baik. On amp off road kompromi. Standar pada quotwhitesquot adalah 14-44. Impor Euro Euro 2002 saya datang dengan 13-48 dan sproket depan cadangan di kotak quotsparesquot. Front sprocket - Renthal part number is 342A-520-13 or 14 or 15 (assuming you are running a 520 O ring chain which I hope you are) or Talon TG415 13T or 14T. Talon may also do the 15T. Rear sprocket - Renthal part number for the Ultra-Lite rear sprocket is 131B-520-48 for 48 tooth - substitute 52 for 52 tooth. Chain. The 520R3-108 chain is a decent quality Renthal 108 link chain which fits my 13-48 sprocket combination exactly. I think 112 is needed for the 14-52 combo. An alternative chain as used by ToroTrail is a Tsubaki MX Alpha MX O Ring Chain ref 520MXA-118. Renthal sprockets and chains are available in the UK from BampC Express 01522 791369 email salesbandcexpress.co.uk Also see the selection of chains and sprockets at Totally TTRs The thread on the retaining nut is RH and doesnt need to be excessively tight as it should have a lock washer which has two tabs so it can be used twice. This needs to have the tab bent back with a blunt chisel or similar before you can undo the nut. In the UK we have something called quotSods Lawquot which says that the only time you will break the last good tab off the lock washer is when your local bike shop is closed for a week I wouldnt advise trying to re-use a tab that has already been bent. They arent expensive so keep a couple of spares just in case - either from here or from your Yamaha parts dealer Part Number 90215-23265-00 To undo the nut (anti-clockwise) . I just put a socket between the sprocket and the frame to stop the sprocket turning. The bigger front sprocket is easier on the chain. Chain noise increases when you replace the original Yamaha sprocket with a plain one as the original has a substantial ring of rubber built in to quieten things down. Any bigger back sprocket than 48 may need the bottom chain guide modifying although I fitted a 52 with no problems. In the UK, Totally TTRs stock part 45-791, the chain bottom guide block which fits the quottwo boltquot UK system. US models come as standard with a bigger rear sprocket (52) and therefore already have the deeper guide block. Standard gear ratios are: 1st 2.467 2nd 1.813 3rd 1.364 4th 1.080 5th 0.889 6th 0.759 Leaking oil from sprocket seal The seal size is 25x40x6 and the seals are available cheaply from Totally TTRs (see here ) as well as your friendly local Yamaha dealer Back to top of page Handlebars and levers As a six footer, I found the original handlebars a little cramped and they didnt encourage me to get up on the pegs. I fitted Renthal Enduro High bars (previously known as Dakar Highs) and they are a lot better for me. However, it is likely that you will need longer throttle and clutch cables especially if you also fit bar risers. Venhill has made up a batch of longer throttle and clutch cables for the TTR - available here. In the UK, the full range of Renthal bars are available from BampC Express - but for the Enduro High bars the part numbers are 613-01-BU (Blue) -GO (Gold) or -SI (Silver) - see here Levers. Levers are swappable between OE, Raid and blue models. They are often listed for sale on eBay or copy levers which fit well are available in the UK here. Back to top of page Can I convert the digital speedo from kph to mph For the digital speedos, there is now a clever device called the SpeedoDRD that not only converts from kph to mph (and the other way around) but also allows accurate corrections for different gearing to get the speedo reading nearly 100 right. The blue Euro TTRs have analogue kmh speedos driven by cable from the front wheel. The UK quotofficialquot machines have an mph speedo Back to top of page More speedo information: a) What do the blue and red buttons do on the digital speedo The blue button switches between two trip gauges so can record two different distances. If you hold down the blue (AB) button for a few seconds it switches the display from the clock function to the overall mileage function and back again. The red button is reset and if you hold it down for a while, about a minute, when the clock is displayed you can set the clock when it is flashing. The hours will flash first and you push quickly the reset button to change them, then push AB or blue button to go to minutes and set minutes the same. Then just press AB again to go back to normal display. b) Digital speedo sender unit - this is often the cause of a quotdeadquot speedo - it was with mine. Replacement for quotwhitequot TTRs is Yamaha part number sender unit 4GY-83755-01 - priced at 119.98 inc. VAT plus PampP as at October 2010. It seems that most sensor failures are due to moisture entering the unit and causing the Hall sensor to fail. See here for how to make a cheap repair Thanks to Sergey for the information. If you dont fancy doing the job yourself an exchange service is available from Totally TTRs . c) Another problem on digital speedos is that the magnet located on the front sprocket can disintegrate - part number 4GY-8354W-00. Replacement inc. VAT is 70.04 as at February 2016. To make a replacement magnet look here. Thanks again to Sergey for the information. If you dont fancy doing the job yourself an exchange service is available from Totally TTRs d) Wiring arrangement for the digital speedo head - courtesy of quotfastfazerquot Having tested the connections with a multimeter I believe the connections are: Red 12v Brown 12v Yellow 5v into the speedo from the speed sensor at the sprocket. This is the pulse wire, the pulse is sent as 5v, -5v, 5v, -5v etc. Blue 5v out to the speed sensor. BlackYellow 0v (Negative) out to the speed sensor. Black 0v (Negative) Connecting 12v to the Red wire lights the speedo up but with no LCD display. Connecting 12v to the Red amp Brown lights it up amp powers the LCD display. e) If you have terminal speedo problems Paul Bates suggests fitting a WR400 speedo drive unit and cable direct on to a DT125 clock, fits straight on apparently - no need to worry about gearing change and km to miles - fits like a glove no hassle he says. Alternatively, Clifford Eves said quotAfter having problems with my digital speedo, and not wanting to pay a fortune for a new pick up sensor, I decided to convert it to cable . Just in case anyone else wants to do this I used a speedo drive, speedo and cable from a DT125LC. It all went straight on - just had to make a bracket for the speedo itself and all for 20.00 from eBayquot f) For mechanical speedos . as fitted to UK blue models, Yamaha only sells the speedo drive mechanism in one piece (part number 4PX-25190) - price inc VAT is a whopping 79.79 plus VAT as at February 2016 But it is usually only the three-tab quotdrivequot washer that fails and these are no longer available separately. However a stainless steel after-market tab washer is available from Totally TTRs. The speedo cable from a DT125LC Mk3 is apparently a very good (and cheap) replacement for the original. Back to top of page What tyres and tubes are best for on and off road use MT43s do it for me In my opinion, the ideal for UK (muddy and stony) trail riding is probably something knobbly (but road legal) such as a Michelin Comp IV on the front and a trials tyre such as the 4.00x18 Pirelli MT43 on the rear. A word of warning - the MT43 is quite a quottallquot tyre and is liable to chew your mudflap and swing arm if you dont give it enough room. Other riders views on tyre choice follow: Pat Bullen says quotAfter a seasons use I can recommend Trelleborgs Army Specials as long lasting, very grippy and suits the TTRs steering geometry well- quite forgiving in ruts for some reason. quot Ian Packer says - Bridgestone TW301 amp TW302: Work excellently on road and fine for off road trailing in dry or wet hard conditions. However the tread is too close for deep glutinous mud which will fill them and not get thrown out - they turn into slicks. Still usable on trails provided care taken in mud. Wear rates are very good. Michelin Enduro comp 3 amp comp 4: Excellent for muddy ruts and loose sloppy conditions. Throws the mud out well and grips well and predictably in all conditions. Soft compound so high wear rates on hard surfaces. Feel horrible on road particular above 60 mph. Perfect tyre for the British winter off road. Brian Morris (Thailand) says quotFitted a set of Bridgestone ED 660 661 at Christmas 2004. They are DOT approved. Both tires have very good grip in most conditions but back tire wore very quickly and have had to replace already. Front tire is still perfect .quot Some recent recommendations include the Michelin AC10 - a road legal MX tyre. Apparently good in mud, and with the large blocks, will last a long time. Down side is that you will not be able to do UK rallies on them as they are illegal for most rally and enduro use. Fitting Ultra Heavy Duty Michelin inner tubes (4mm thick) helps prevent punctures but they have to be run at relatively high pressure to make them quotfillquot the tyre so they dont move and rip the valve out. Also, use good rim locks to prevent the tyres spinning on the rims and ripping the valves out e.g. Talon forged 1.60 front and 2.15 rear. Back to top of page Yes A comprehensive 325 kit is available from Thumper Racing who sell big bore kits for a wide range of dirt bikes. I have fitted the kit to my 2004 TTR and it transforms its performance. Nothing beats extra ccs for some extra performance. The kit has so far proved totally reliable and the TTR is a joy to ride both on the trail and on the road. See this excellent thread by Bryan Wedmore from the ThumperTalk forum which explains about fitting the kit in more detail and has some helpful pics. Thanks Bryan - it is a very helpful resource for TTR250 owners looking for a bit more power and better front suspension: thumpertalkforumshowthread.phpt521772 There is a cheaper alternative to get a few extra ccs but it doesnt compare to going the big bore route The Wiseco quot280quot kit which is basically a new oversize forged piston taking it to 263cc (NOT 280cc) and involves boring of cylinder liner only with no crankcase alterations. A mate of Lance Parsons did it and says it results in more bhp and torque and says he can pull wheelies in 4th gear (13-52 gearing) - he also fitted a 35mm carb and got more bhp amp acceleration - had his exhaust ports bored out by Phil Manning, and again got more bhp and quicker pick up. Back to top of page Can I fit an oil cooler Yamaha used to sell an oil cooler kit - part number YAM-4GY-WO793-00 - cost 285 Australian at the beginning of 2002 but this has now been discontinued but you may be lucky and find some new old stock or a second-hand one from a breakers yard. The kit came with everything you needed and could be installed in about an hour. The hardest part was removing the clutch cover to replace an existing blanking bolt with a 10mm longer one to blank off the internal oilway and divert the oil around radiator part of the cooler - see photograph. The kit even came with a new clutch cover gasket. You get about 12 litre more oil capacity and prolongs the life of the oil dramatically. Anybody with basic tools and mechanical knowledge can do it. Some good advice is to fit a bash plate to protect the oil lines which run from the crankcase to the radiator. I am not aware of a suitable after-market kit that can be recommended but some good information on the TTR250 forum here. Second-hand ones available here . Back to top of page Can I (i) change my metal tank for a plastic one or (ii) get a bigger tank for Desert Rallys etc (i) Yes - according to Alev Bill you can install a blue plastic or an Acerbis or even a XR250400 tank. All you need some modification. Two metal plates bolted on the front engine mount would do it. Thanks Alev (ii) Yes again - Acerbis do a 22 litre plastic tank. Back to top of page Oil changing. The oil filter is a common off-the-shelf Yamaha part - the Yamaha Part No is 1UY-13440-02-00. The filters most commonly found for sale on the internet are HiFlo. The mesh style ones are HF142 and the paper ones are HF141. The best I have found are the Filtrex filters - see here. 1 litre of oil is needed for the metal-tanked models and 1.1 litres for the later plastic-tanked TTRs - unless you have a oil cooler on then it maybe a little more. Lance Parsons was advised to use a semi-synthetic oil and uses Castrol GPS quotExtreme Protection at High Temperature Semi-Synthetic 4 Stroke Motor Cycle Oilquot which claims to be quotan advanced semi-synthetic 4 stroke engine oil formulated to maintain a tough renewing layer of protection for bikes ridden hard. Castrol GPS provides excellent wet clutch performance and consumption controlquot. Lance changes his oil every 1,000km but thats down to you to decide. If you have just driven a hard 3.5hr Hare amp Hounds then I would probably advise changing it I use Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 semi-synthetic oil. Haynes Manual Recommended lubricants for EngineTransmission are: Type: API grade SE or SF multigrade oil, Viscosity: 40-degrees F(5-degrees C) or above:20W40 or 10-degrees F(-10-degrees C) or below:10W30 Tyler Watts says: All these engines ask for is good oil and for it to be changed regularly. You can even use average off the shelf stuff from the service station (Im not recommending it though) as long as you change it regularly. Regularly depends on your riding. Off-roading, hill climbing, overlanding etc would require more regular changes approx. 500-1,000 miles. Less strenuous riding like commuting could extend this. A good tip for knowing when to change the oil is if youre riding along sedately and just short-shifting through the gear box, you will notice the changes get more clunky or stiff. It is simply the gearbox saying its used all the good lubricating the oil can offer and would like some new oil. My engine had never been opened after 20,000miles, and was great. All that went wrong was a cylinder base gasket leaking, and then a nit on the end of the spanner putting the timing wrong and turning over the engine, ramming the piston into the intake valves. Otherwise, she is amazing and the mileage is loads higher now Back to top of page For bash plates in the UK, try Totally TTRs where a high quality bespoke bash plate is available. Back to top of page Need a grab handle for your blue TTR Dave Maddock has recently bought the quotmissingquot LH (exhaust side) grab handle - part number was 4PX-F1275-00 - costs 58.08 inc VAT (as at February 2016). The RH grab handle is part number 4GY-2127A-00 and was 46.21 inc. VAT retail as at February 2016. Apparently the handles are part of the UK road-kit (along with a few other bits) and arent listed on the fiche. The dealers have a separate booklet for these parts. The UK spec bikes should already have them fitted but most of the parallels and semi-official ones dont. The US models dont have the mounting brackets on the frame. Grab handles are available in the UK here . Back to top of page The TTR is fitted as standard with a gel-filled battery pre-filled with battery acid (GS Valve Regulated Lead-acid battery) part number GT7B-4. The first letter (G, C or Y) denotes the motorcycle battery manufacturer amp can be substituted for another letter depending on the make of battery, for example: YT7B-4, CT7B-4, GT7B-4 are all the same battery. They cost about 30 on UK eBay (inc. VAT and delivery) as at August 2015. Dimensions: 148mm long (along front) x 64mm wide x 90mm high, 12 volt, 6AH and approx 85 EN cold cranking amps. Back to top of page In the UK, these were approx. 310 - not cheap - but are now sadly no longer available from Yamaha. The only way possible now is to use a second-hand kickstart mechanism from another TTR engine - see ttr250TTRretrofittingkickstart.htm Kick start kit installation by Nik Codling 280502 Having installed the Yamaha kick start kit for the TTR250 myself, I thought Id share my experiences with others, and hopefully make the job slightly easier for anyone attempting it. First thing to note is that it cant be that hard I managed it ok, and its pretty straightforward The instructions that come with the kit are probably really good. I say probably, as it is more suited to those who have a good grip of Japanese, being as it is written entirely in said language The Japanese language is visually very pretty, although my grasp of it is roughly equivalent to my grasp of female logic (very small), although I did once try Sushi. The instructions do have a few diagrams, which certainly give you the basic information to be able to complete the job, although there were a few occasions where I had to make a couple of guesses First job is to remove the right hand engine cover. You will probably find this is made easier by removing the brake pedal (just undo the pivot bolt) and the foot peg (two hexAllen head bolts). The engine casing itself is retained by a number of hex (Allen) head bolts. You will also have to remove the oil banjo bolt above the oil filter. A good idea when you remove these is to place them down on a clean surface, and lay them out in the order they came out the bolts vary in length and its easy to mix them up otherwise. Of the three oil filter bolts you only need to remove the outermost one, although its a good opportunity to give the oil filter a clean while youre at it. Once all the engine cover bolts are out you can take the cover off, exposing the clutch assembly. Its at this point that you discover whether you remembered to drain the oil or not In my case I hadnt, and some lovely new semi synthetic deposited itself on my garage floor In order to install the kick start assembly you need to remove the clutch assembly. This may seem scary to the amateur mechanic, but its pretty easy. The clutch plates are held in by six bolts, with a 10mm head. Slacken these all off a little bit at a time try and undo them all evenly, and not one at a time, it puts less stress on the clutch basket that way. Once the bolts are undone, you can withdraw that clutch plates in one go, complete with the clutch cover plate (not sure the correct term) and the six bolts and springs. The clutch basket is retained by a large nut with a tab washer, and youll need a 27mm socket to undo it. Tap the tab washer out of the way, allowing access to the nut. At this point youll need to prevent the engine from turning over, in order that you can undo the nut. A professional mechanic would have a device to hold the clutch basket, and prevent it from turning. A less scrupulous mechanic would insert the largest spanner they have through the back wheel, but I wouldnt recommend this practice. Once the engine is held the nut is pretty easy to undo, and the basket can be withdrawn from the splined shaft. Behind this is a large flywheel (again, not sure of proper name), and this is retained by a castellated washer remove this, and off comes the flywheel. To the left of the flywheel is a small shaft, with a blanking piece on it, retained by a circlip. Remove the circlip and blanking piece. The shaft is then fitted with a circlip and washer, and one of the large gears supplied with the kit. This is held in place with a washer and circlip. Make sure you fit the gear the right way round (it should be obvious, depending on whether you can rotate it once fitted). Once this is in place you can re-fit the whole clutch assembly. You might want to take this opportunity to inspect the clutch plates, and make sure theyre within spec (use Vernier calipers to measure the thickness of the friction material). When re-fitting the clutch bolts be careful not to over-tighten (refer to workshop manual for correct torque). Next job is to fit the kick start stop. This consists of three small metal plates, which prevent the kick start shaft from being turned beyond a certain angle. You will find two threaded holes to the left of the clutch assembly that these are fitted to. Fit first the smallest plain plate, then the really thick one (ensuring that the big tab is pointing upwards), and finally the plate with the two tabs on it (with the tabs facing towards the left). Screw in the bolts to approx 10nM (i.e. not very tight you really dont want to strip the threads, but tight enough that they wont undo) and bend up the tabs to help prevent the bolts undoing. Next up, you need to fit the splined shaft that the kick start return spring hooks over. This goes into a hole towards the bottom, below where the kick start stop is. The hole isnt splined, and you may feel as though it isnt the right place. It is, its just that it needs a damn good whack to get it in there I started off using a nylon-faced mallet, but ended up using a lump hammer in order to hit it hard enough to get it in the hole Mind you dont over-do it though, after all, most of the engine consists of softer aluminiumalloy parts. Try and hit the shaft square on the end, so that it doesnt go in at a funny angle. Be careful not to put the shaft in all the way leave about 2-3mm of the splines sticking out. Now you need to assemble the kick start shaft itself. This is quite easy, and is illustrated in the instructions (refer to Shawn Crowells .jpg in the Yahoo Groups files area). First fit the big gear, and retain it with a washer and circlip. Then fit the ratchet note the orientation as per the above jpeg. Next is the smaller spring, large spring-retaining washer, and a circlip to hold it all in place. A washer is then slipped over the top of the circlip, prior to installing the shaft. At the other end of the shaft is the big kick start return spring. This is pretty straightforward, just hooking it in to the slot in the shaft flange. Within the spring sits the large, thick washer. This just sits in place and will be retained by the engine casing, once its in place. You can now insert the kick start shaft into the engine (make sure the washer is on the end of the shaft). It literally just sits in a circular recess. Once in place hook the kick start return spring over the splined shaft that you fitted earlier. Its worth checking that the splined shaft is fitted to the correct depth, by checking how square the kick start return spring is sitting. At this stage you may wish to make some adjustment to how much tension the kick start return spring has. As stated in the instructions, I felt it was a little weak - note the illustration showing the correct assembly of the ratchet piece, in conjunction with the kick start shaft flange. I therefore rotated the shaft assembly round by one spline, to give a little more pre-load to the spring. This is slightly tricky to explain, but becomes obvious once you trial fit the kick start shaft in place and try turning it by temporarily fitting the kick start lever. Once this is done youre ready to go about re-fitting the engine cover. First of all though, you need to remove the bung from the engine cover, in order for the kick start shaft to come through. I inserted an appropriately sized socket into the hole behind the bung, and gave it a whack, and out it popped. You can now re-fit the engine cover, oil banjo bolt, brake lever and footpeg, and all thats left is to fit the kick start lever, and off you go The whole job shouldnt take more than a couple of hours I was being careful and it took about three hours, but someone more proficientconfident would be much quicker than that (and probably wouldnt need this anyway). Ive written this from memory, and I may well have missed stuff out, but I think thats it Back to top of page A very useful thread on the TTR250 forum is worth looking at - see here. Starter motors and the associated sprag (one-way) clutch seem to be a weak point on TTRs if excessive noise when cranking or banging when switching onoff is ignored. A worn sprag clutch will kick back on shut dwn and strip the teeth off the starter pinion. Replace the sprag clutch to save a much more expensive rebuild. If you have leave it too long then, in addition to the stripped starter pinion, you may find that teeth on the starter gears are damaged and, in extreme situations, the generator cover will be cracked and start leaking oil. As at October 2013, the UK price of a new casing is 220.92 inc VAT (part number 4GY-15411-02-00), the small idler gear is 103, large idler gear is 93.95, new flywheel bolts 4, and crankcase gasket 5. A friend of mine, Adrian Harris, rebuilt a TTR starter, to replace the mangled pinion gear, using an armature centre and good pinion from a more common Matsui starter. Check out dirtybiking.co.uk. Peter from France says he has found an easier solution than modifying an FZ600 starter He says it is possible to use one from a Honda 125 NX (or Transcity) and all you have to do is change the rear cover - everything else is the same. Thanks Peter Starter brush plate and brushes - the Mitsuba kit part number is SM-13R and the kit can be found on eBay. Starter motor brushes - the brushes for Honda TRX 250 300 350 440 450 500 quads fit and are advertised on eBay Back to top of page See here for my own guide. The following guide is from Tim Woods - thanks Tim The repair was fairly easy, but I have been working on bikes as a hobby most of my life, Im 45 now. The parts were under 70 (the one-way bearing costs 183 in UK - Oct 2013), and you will need a flywheel puller (Yamaha part number is 2K7-85555-00 - 8 in UK). The shop that I went to didnt have a puller in stock and they couldnt find one in the after market catalogue. What I found that worked great is a spark plug thread cleaner made by KD tools part 730 it has a 18mm x 1.5mm on one end (thats the size needed for the flywheel) and a 14mm x 1.5mm on the other end, its made from hardened metal. You will need an air impact to pull the flywheel there is no way to hold the flywheel from turning if you use a socket wrench. (Andy Yates says quotSoak components in WD40 or your favourite penetrating lubricant, stick the bike in gear, wedge a large lump of wood through the back wheel so it jams against the swing arm and cant rotate. Get someone to stand on the back brake. then stick a BFO length of scaffolding tube on your 12quot breaker bar and apply force.quot At your own risk though folks) 1 Drain the motor oil. 2 Lay the bike on its right side. 3 Remove the counter sprocket cover. 4 Remove the small cover, the one with three bolts, where the starter gears are. 5 Remove the starter gear under the cover (the starter doesnt need to be removed). 6 Remove the mag. side cover and lay it over to one side the wires dont need to be unplugged. 7 Remove the bolt in the end of the crankshaft. 8 Thread the flywheel puller in the flywheel. 9 Use an air impact to remove the flywheel. 10 Remove the six Allen head bolts from the front of the flywheel, they are put in with lock thread so they are tough to remove and the bolts will be junk after they are taken out. 11 The one-way bearing is now free to come off. 12 When you replace the new bearing use lock thread on the new Allen bolts, I used Red Locktite 721. 13 After the bearing is installed put the flywheel assy. back on the crankshaft, I used the air impact to install the bolt, but be careful and dont over do it. 14 Install the mag. side cover, with a new gasket. 15 Install the sprocket cover. 16 Fill the crankcase with 1100cc of oil. 17 Start it up and check for leaks. This was the first time I made this repair and it took me about two hours. Hope the info helps everyone, sure beats 60 per hour that the shop charges, and I like to know how everything inside the motor works anyway. (See also dirtybiking.co.uk ) Heres a list of parts you will need: 1 x One-way bearing part 4GY-15590-00-00 6 x Allen bolts part 90110-06091-00 1 x Side cover gasket part 4GY-15451-00-00 1 x Flywheel puller KD 730 from the auto parts store (or Yamaha puller has part number is 2K7 85555 00). PS Also see here for my own guide. Back to top of page Clutch plate information. I recently fitted a new clutch. The quotcorkquot or friction plates for both OE and blue models are 3XJ-16321-00-00. The OE and Raid models need 6 and the blue model needs 7 plates. The plain steel plates for the white and very early blue models are 3XJ-16324-00-00 (5 required) and the later blue models (6 required) are 3XJ-16324-01-00. Dont forget to soak your new friction plates overnight in engine oil before fitting New clutch springs are 90501-23763-00 for the 6 plate clutch and 90501-23391-00 for the seven plate clutch. I believe the later springs are shorter. All parts available here. Beware if buying second-hand parts as the clutch basket and cover are different between white and blue models as they need to be wider and deeper on the blue models to accommodate the extra plates. Back to top of page Fork Seals and refilling forks Fork seals are the same size across the models - 43x55x9.510 All Balls kits are probably the easiest to source. Check the fork bushing is OK before buying in your kit as, if there is wear, it is easy to renew the bushing whilst the forks are apart. A simple check is to get the TTR securely up on a stand with the front wheel off the ground. Grab both fork legs and see if there is any back and forth movement. Make sure that any movement isnt loose or worn steering head bearings though Oil type and capacity - Lances Haynes manual says: Capacity: 555cc, Type: Yamaha fork oil quot01quot or equivalent, Oil Level: 130mm (fork fully compressed and spring removed). Some owners take the opportunity to use a heavier weight oil such as a 5 or 10 weight to give a slightly stiffer fork action. For a guide on replacing TTR fork seals see: ttr250TTRrenewforkseals.htm Head stem bearing inspection or replacement. Ideally this job should be done by 2 people. Set bike up on stand with front wheel about 100mm off the ground. Pull off headlight cowling, undo the 3 bolts and pull forward headlightspeedo assembly, then unscrew speedo cable and unclip wiring, then remove the headlightspeedo assembly. (spraying a little CRC, RP7 or the like into the wiring clips doesnt hurt). Place a rag over the front mudguard as the handlebars and other bits will soon rest there. Keeping everything intact on the handle bars, just remove the 4 bolts and pull the bars forward and lay them on the front mudguard, all the wiring is long enough to accommodate this. Next undo the 4 bolts holding the front indicators to the forks, lay these indicators also on the front guard, (once again the wiring is long enough.) Remove the main nut securing the top forkhead stem bracket, then using a large screw driver, pry open the fork clamps on the top forkhead stem bracket. This bracket can now be removed. Place a block of wood under the front wheel so it is JUST supporting the weight. With one person standing in front of the wheel making sure it doesnt roll forward (it will want to very soon) remove cliplock nut, main nut. The whole front fork assembly will want to roll forward at this point. Supporting the weight of the wheel, remove the front chock of wood and gently lower the wheel to the floor. As the whole thing wants to roll forward be careful not to damage the thread, the top bearing will pop out when the wheel is lowered. The bottom bearing is now completely exposed so now both can be greased. One person can service the bearings while the other stops the wheel coming forward. Replacement bearings are part number 93332-00078-00 but in the UK are about 40 if you order the genuine Yamaha parts else an All Balls kit will do the job. When finished, lift the front wheel up (careful of the thread), place the wooden chock back under the wheel and install the top bearing and nuts (THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB) then fit things back in reverse order of the way they came off. Fork pinch bolts - torque setting is 23Nm the same as the handlebar clamp bolts. There you go, it sounds complicated but it is really quite simple and quick. Many thanks to Matt Selleck for this Back to top of page The spark plug gap for standard plug is 0.7 to 0.8mm Off Road Only (ORO) do the Splitfire range of plugs for the bike, if you use either the CR8E or the CR9E then the equivalent Splitfire is either the 430B or C. My 2002 and 2004 TTRs use NGK CR9E or Nippon Denso U27ESR-N plugs. For a few quid extra it may be worth going for an Iridium plug - NGK IRIDIUM IX SPARK PLUG CR9EIX CR9E-IX 3521 The standard spark plug requires a 16mm spanner. Spark plug torque 12.5Nm. See here for plugs and plug caps. Back to top of page It is possible to drop the front forks through the clamps to lose some height plus some owners have modified suspension link arms. Also there is an inch or so lowering available by backing off the spring on the rear shock absorber. There are a few lowering links available: a) Totally TTRs lowering link - see here b) The Kouba lowering link - see here The final solution quite often is to sculpt the seat foam - an electric carving knife does a neat job Back to top of page a) There is a range of workshop and owners manuals plus a parts catalogue available for download here . b) In the UK, you can go to your Yamaha dealer with your frame number to get a bound photocopy of an English service manual (not the smaller owners manual) - cost over 30. c) There is a Haynes manual on: Yamaha Trail Bikes 1981-00 Haynes 2350, PW5080, RT100180, TT-R90, TT-R225, TT-R250, XT225, XT350. Available to Rides List members at a discount from Mike Husband at Merlin books - see here. Covers only the American spec TTR250 quotplay bikequot but a UK TTR owner who bought it says its still very useful. Back to top of page The wheel bearing on the TTR250 are sealed. Replacing bearings can be a challenge until you get to know how they fit. The collars are press fit into the inner race of the bearings and you need a large drift or a press to get them out - be patient and careful Rear wheel takes 3 x 6022 2RS size - 22x44x12 and oil seals for wheel 2 x 28x47x7. Front wheel LEFT takes 1x 6003 2RS - size 17x35x10 and oil seal is 22x35x7. Front wheel RIGHT takes 1x6202 2RS - size 15x35x11 and oil seal 20x35x5 (digital speedo models only - blue TTRs dont use a seal on the speedo drive side). In UK, All Balls kits (which include bearings and seals) area available here. Back to top of page Clutch inhibitor switch replacement Totally TTRs in the UK can supply a replacement handlebar clutch inhibitor switch (part 44-022) that is not a direct replacement i.e. clip fitting different in clutch lever perch and the bullet connectors need cutting and soldering to the existing spade connectors but is less than half the price of the genuine Yamaha part (4GY-82917-01-0). See here. Hasse Prefect says: The TTR has a sidestand switch, a neutral switch and a clutch lever switch. Both the sidestand switch and the clutch lever switch you should bypass, the sidestand may bounce as you go over whoops and then the engine will cut out, also the cables may rip when going through bushes and stuff. The clutch lever switch (according to Sods law) will break down when you are very far from home and the sun is setting. It is nice to have the neutral light but it is by no no means necessary, bodging the clutch lever and sidestand switches should be enough - following the rule that quotif it is not there it cant breakquot. 26 April 2007 Be warned that safety switches are there for a reason and a nasty accident could happen if you drive off with the sidestand down. Back to top of page Adjusting the sag. Rear preload is set by having the suspension full extended. At full extension, measure from the centre of the axle to a point on the sub frame and note the distance. Next, with riding gear on, load the suspension with your weight positioned on the bike in your normal riding position. You might have to have someone assist you by keeping the bike upright Measure from the centre of the axle to the same point on the sub frame. You should have about 100 mm less distance with the suspension loaded. Adjust the preload on the spring until you get the 100 mm differential. After getting the 100 mm sag, next check your static sag . This is how much the bike settles from full extension with just the weight of the bike. You should have approximately 35 mm free sag. If your free sag is considerably more or less than 35 mm, you probably will need to exchange the spring. Thanks to Jack Hixson for this piece. Refurbishing a TTR rear shock absorber. The part number of the rear shock is 5GF-22210-00-P0 but a new one is very expensive so repairs are usually cost effective In the UK, Justin Gibbs at Saltash offers a superb service. Klik di sini untuk rinciannya. Justin is also able to alter the ride height of the shock absorber if required. A DIY approach is described here. Parts for forks and shock. Race Tech sell rebuild parts for the front forks and the rear shock inc. the seal head, shock shaft bushing, bottom-out bumper, and reservoir bladder - click here for prices etc. Totally TTRs also now sell the seal head - see here Rear shock absorber springs. Most are yellow indicating it is the standard spring but I have seen the stronger red springs on a few TTRs. Apparently there is also a white spring for lighter riders but I havent seen one of those. Rear suspension linkages . It is recommended that you check the rear suspension links occasionally to check all the seals are OK. If water gets in then you will have problems. The original Yamaha needle rollers have the poly lube type so dont need greasing as such. A good tip is to WD40 the damper rod on the rear shock after power washing otherwise it could get rusty and pitted which would damage the seal head and you lose the damping - plus its expensive to repair Swing arm bearings: All Balls do a swing arm repair kit ref 28-1096 which includes all of the above. About 35 inc. pampp in the UK here. Installation guide here . Relay Arm bearings: In the UK, you can get an quotAll Ballsquot linkage bearing kit ref 2 7-1094 here w hich seems good value at 60 inc VAT and pampp especially as it includes the lower shock bearing. A pictorial guide to replacing the relay arm bearings is available here Rear shock absorber bearings. 1. LOWER SHOCK BEARING A pictorial guide to changing the lower shock bearing here . All Balls supply the bottom shock kit ref 17-8613 (or 29-5013) if you need to replace it. If you have a good source of cheap bearings then the part number is GE14ESK and the seals are quotClark Seals V5 18.5 x 26 x 2.7quot. All Balls advise to use waterproof grease or any good quality bearing grease. The collars on the bottom bearing came out easily by levering them off with a wide blade screwdriver. 2. UPP ER SHOCK BEARING HOWEVER, it was not the same story with the top bearing collars - Yamaha part no 90387-100Y3-00 (cost 11.16 for both). These collars have very wide quotflangesquot and my first attempt at levering them off with the screwdriver broke a large section off the flange - after a struggle I managed to get both flanges off but destroyed them in the process I have since successfully removed them in one piece by giving them a good soak of WD40 and then using a punch on the inside lip. Once one is out, the other is easily removed. The wire circlips are tricky unless you have a very fine screwdriver such as used for spectacle screws. It is possible to lever out the circlip just enough to get pliers on it or a bigger screwdriver behind it to get it out all the way. An easier alternative may be to drill or Dremel a groove in the shock body as far as the circlip to allow you to flip out the circlip with a sharp pick. It isnt possible to source the top quotspherical plainquot shock bearing as it is a quotspecialquot - inside diameter (id) 12mm, outside diameter (od) 26mm, inner ring width (ir) 15cm, outer ring width (or) 13mm. However, if you are prepared to compromise, it is possible to source alternatives. I used a GE12FO whose only difference is that the quotorquot is 9mm so it needed packing out. The alternative standard bearing has a slightly wider quotirquot at 16cm and I do wonder whether I should have used this one and perhaps found a way to take 0.5mm off each side. The Yamaha part number for their seals is 38V-22211-00-00. Since doing my repair, a much better alternative has come onto the market - see here Back to top of page Installing a Scotts Steering Damper on a 99. This article is courtesy of Paul Garlick - thanks Paul. I had the reaction post welded to the frame by a professional, but since I installed my unit I have seen a lot of Scotts dampers installed with the reaction post bolted or clamped to the frame. This makes it a DIY. job and the riders said they hadnt had problems with the post working loose. Personally I like the added integrity of the weld. I installed Renthal Jimmy Button bend hbars so that the damper would fit under the cross-bar. I left the settings stock for the first several rides (Scott recommends this), eventually I increased the low speed damping resistance one or two clicks. I havent adjusted the arc (steering angle) limits, the damper has adjustable arc limits to minimize arm pump. If you put the bike up on a stand you can feel the resistance when you swing the handlebars through their travel. Its not much. One of the sales features of the Scotts unit is that it has low speed and high speed damping circuits. Its the low speed side you can feel. The more low speed damping you wind in then the less effective the high speed circuit becomes. Its great, I ride in the woods with the roots and rocks and it really helps. I just makes you feel that you are having a good day. Its the high speed circuit that is working when you whack a tree really hard and the bike keeps more or less on track - instead of doing a tank slapper into the weeds. Back to top of page Clogging of front sprocket on white TTRs . It gets pretty tiresome removing the cover every time the bike gets near any dirt just to clean it out. Johnny Davies has modified the cover to allow mud etc to escape rather than build up into a nice compacted lump around the front sprocket - pictures in the Files area of the TTR250 Yahoo Group - in the quotsprocket cover picsquot folder. Looks simple but effective. An alternative is the bespoke alloy cover here The blue TTRs have a conventional speedo driven by a front wheel cable so dont suffer quite so much with this problem. Back to top of page Replacement decals It is possible to buy reasonably priced good quality replacement decals for your Open Enduro or plastic-tanked blue TTR. Karl Barker of DampD Graphics has produced some cracking designs. On request DampD will amend the kits to show the TTR250 web address. I have had these on my TTR for a while now and they fit well and are still looking very good. They are well perforated so there is minimal bubbling and any that do appear can be easily squeezed out. DampD now have graphics available for the WR250RX and newer DT125R models. Contact Karl Barker, DampD Graphics UK, email: infoddgraphics.co.uk. new website at ddgraphics.co.uk Karen Bunker has found another supplier at enjoymfg. I have had sets of their graphics and seat covers and the quality is superb. Thanks Karen Clint Smith says quotThe graphics are made in the USA and are very good qualityquot Seat covers. In the UK they are available here. Replacement for tail light and number plate holder (applies to UK) Stainless steel tail tidies are available here . Replace those big indicators I tend to fit a set of Motrax Micro Fairing indicators (Part number for the amber ones is FM1) to all my TTRs. Click here to see pic. Frame paint The early quotwhitequot TTRs frame paint colour is Yamaha Deep Violet Blue. A friend got some made up for a later OE model by RS Bike Paint and they call it quotYamaha 16590 French Bluequot. Using the information here it may be possible to get your local motor factors paint shop to make you up some on their mixing machine for the plastic-tanked TTRs. I cant find the metal-tanked models listed on their site. In Australia try Color Rite. For the later blue plastic-tank models, Dupli-Color sell a closely matching aerosol - DSSB09 Blue Mica (Subaru). Thanks to Les Chant in OZ for that info After-market plastics. You cant get after market plastic for the TTR except an MX style rear fender. You can put any aftermarket YZWR front fender on it though - just cut off about an inch in the back. Replacement fork gaiters. I know it is a matter of personal taste but I think black gaiters look a whole lot better on the quotwhitequot TTRs than the purple or pink ones. I have tracked down some after-market ones and they are Pro Grip PG2510 ref 2636511 and fit 4245 - 60 forks. Cost about 16 - available in blue or black from Totally TTRs and other bike shops. Back to top of page TTR250 - Street Legal in California (Courtesy of Tommy Vee) I recently legalized my TTR in California. Baja designs would be glad to sell you a complete kit to convert your bike but I just ordered the parts that I needed since the head and tail lights are dual filament bulbs (high beam and brake lights) and the bike already has an adequate battery and charging system. You can purchase the turn signals from a local bike shop such as Cycle Gear. Baja Designs supplied the turn signal headlight switch (pn 12-9005), the turn signal flasher, and the horn. I made up my own wiring harnesses but if you are not able to set up your own, Im sure that Baja designs would be able to supply the wiring kit also. Be sure to ask Baja for the turn signal wiring diagram for their switch. For the brake lights, I bought a hydraulic brake light switch from the local bike shop. The switch replaces the Banjo bolt on the rear hydraulic master cylinder. Once you have all of the lights brakes and turn signals and horn set up, check around with the local repair shops as the bike shops will do the brake and light inspection not the CHP. Call your local CHP office and get a copy of form CHP 888 as the DMV will ask you if you have read the form and you must certify that your bike complies with the requirements. Buy some insurance and rip that green sticker off so you can turn it in at DMV. Call the brake and light station and find out what they will check for. Remember to install a high beam indicator light. I bought a 12-volt mini lamp (blue) from Radio Shack and tie wrapped it to the front brake line guide ring next to the trip meter. Baja was very helpful you can get their 800 number from their website and call their technical services dept. If you are pretty good with wiring it should be a piece of cake. Semoga berhasil. TV Back to top of page Got a brand new TTR A mate imported a pair of Euro TTRs and they arrived in a crate with no information as to their preparation. Here are some tips that I found through the internet and from practical experience: try and read the manual to get to know the bike check and tighten any loose spokes - continue to check the spokes periodically to ensure proper tightness remove front and rear axles and coat with a high quality grease or copper based quotAnti-Seizequot. check header pipe (rear end) for restrictor washer and remove if found if you can face it, dismantle and re-grease rear suspension linkages before you use the bike - else you will never do it dismantle and check kick start, rear brake pivot and steering head, to make certain they contains sufficient grease in all the bearings the foot pegs have a particularly high tooth on the outside which is just right to catch in and tear your leggings - file them down take off the tyres and put them back into store for when you need to sell the bike - put on some decent rubber that suits the conditions YOU ride in Get to know the bike, as far as how it is put together. Do this by removing the plastics, fuel tank, and whatever else you feel like doing the more the better. It is likely that many bolts, nuts, etc. will be loose, or just not tight enough. Loose bolts can bewill be discovered while removing the plastic, etc - check all nuts and bolts and fittings for tightness and re-check regularly. On new bikes, some riders hear a strange tinny rattling or metallic whistling noise from the left-hand side of the engine on the over-run i.e. when you shut off the throttle in any gear. Steve Copsey tells us that the reason for this is that where the chain is new and tight it doesnt slip off the front sprocket as smoothly as it should and bends outwards as it leaves the lower edge. Basically it rubs against the lower section of the case-saver - take this cover off and you will see the rub mark. The answer is to file about a millimetre off and the noise will magically disappear. Back to top of page Fuller information on the TTR250 Raid Brake Horse Power 33 BHP Engine type 249cc, 4-stroke single, DOHC air-cooled Starter Electric start and optional kickstarter Power 30PS8500RPM Torque 2.8Kg7000RPM Seat Height 875mm Length 2195mm Width 835mm Height 1255mm Wheelbase 1410mm Clearance 300mm Dry Weight 120 kg Economy 47kmlitre at 60 kmph Petrol tank capacity 16 litre Tyre - Front 3.00 - 21 51P Tyre - Rear 4.60 - 18 63P Brakes Hydraulic single disc front and rear Chain DK428VS3 134 Battery GT7B 12V 7AH Sparking plug CR8E, U24ESR-N Sparking plug - alternative CR9E, U27ESR-N Bore x stroke 73.0 x 59.6 Compression 8.5:1 Engine oil 1.0 litre Fork oil 625cc per leg Carb bore 30mm Carb float level 7.5 9.5 Main jet 145 Pilot jet 50 Needle clip Position 3 Idle RPM 1300 4 6 CO2 Valve clearance - In 0.09 0.17mm Valve clearance - Ex 0.19 Simple step-by-step pictorial guides: totallyttrs - quotTotally TTRsquot - an invaluable web page totally dedicated to TTR250 owners looking for parts (new and second hand) and accessories ttr250.activeboard - a busy one makemodel forum for TTR250 owners and enthusiasts to exchange questions, answers, information, and advice. Any one is welcome to talk about dirt and trail bikes, SuperMoto () TTR250s, tuning, racing, maintenance, practice tracks, trails, events, and any other TTR250 - stuff. highlandsyamahaoempartslyam5004564df8700209bc7930162006-tt-r250-ttr250v-parts - Highlands Microfiche On Line - although for the US TTR250, most parts seem remarkably similar to UK models - worth a look Once you have the part numbers then a good bike shop will order the bits and not moan about the TTR being an quotimportquot (to UK owners that is) TTR Heaven (Or trail riding in the Andalucian Mountains) - A tale of my trail riding adventure with ToroTrail in September 2007. Sadly the TTRs were made redundant but ToroTrail found worthy replacements in the Yamaha WR250R. Ride Limousin - Road and Off Road Motorcycle Holidays in France - recommended Torsten and Rowena are great hosts and Torsten has a small fleet of TTR250s to hire out. Jules Classic Adventure. guided tours in exotic Laos - TTR250s available to use Back to top of page A little extra pressie at Xmas A nice little 1:18 scale die cast model TTR250 is available from Hachette in issue 14 of their Mega Bikes fortnightly series - cost a measly 4.99. Obtainable from their Customer Service Hotline - 0870 7297290 (Mon - Fri 9am-5pm). See a pic of the Maisto model here. Also, its worth looking on e-Bay as well as there always seems to be a few models for sale there - got a nice blue one from e-Bay myself only recently Back to top of page TTR250 FAQ compiled by Brian Sussex, Devon, UK Please ask any questions on the TTR250 forum - ttr250.activeboard Whats in the FAQ above is the total knowledge I have acquired to date Click on house for my Home Page if you came directly to this page - the site is mostly off-road stuff
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